Tokyo, Sapporo Ice Festival, Skiing in Hokkaido, Kyoto, and my friend’s farmhouse
Stepping off the plane in Japan felt like stepping into another dimension.
My previous experience with anything Japan-related now felt like a weird knock-off version of the real thing. I had a mangled impression, built on grocery-store sushi, a few video games, and Miyazaki movies. These things only hinted at the authentic experience I was about to have, stepping out from a 2D experience and into reality.
Month six of my retirement started in February, not particularly high-time for Japanese tourism. It’s a bit chilly, and the famous cherry blossoms aren’t quite out yet. However, I prefer traveling in the off-season and in this case cold meant SNOW. My plan for Japan was to go skiing in Hokkaido, then visit a friend from college who studied Japanese and then promptly moved there after school. It didn’t take me long to figure out why. Nearly every day I found myself thinking, “Hm, I could live here!”
Day 1-3 Tokyo
The first thing I did when I landed was eat. One of my friends joined me for this portion of my round-the-world trip, and his flight was set to land a couple hours after mine, plenty of time to get some udon and katsu.
I spent my first days in the vibrant and bustling capital, Tokyo. I wandered from the trendy streets of Shibuya and Harajuku to the traditional temples and gardens of Asakusa. I attempted to visit the Tsukiji Fish Market, but I made it too late. Luckily it was right next to the famous conceptual art exhibit teamLab Planets TOKYO, so I popped in there instead.
The whole idea behind the experience at teamLab is that you’re totally immersed. That means going barefoot, sometimes nearly knee deep in water, clambering through rooms with different textured floors. You explore rooms with mirrors and lights that make for a plethora of fun photoshoot opportunities. Here I am in a room where the balls apparently impact each other and then change the color of the room.
Food
After every exhibit and activity, I worked up an appetite. After all, it’s impossible to write about Japan without mentioning the food. The delicious, salty and sweet meals that continue to delight. We found a place serving onigiri nearby for just $1 per piece, and that became our reliable breakfast go-to: a triangular rice ball wrapped in seaweed, and packed with the flavorful filling of your choosing. As someone who isn’t a big fan of breakfast foods, I wish I could have onigiri forever.
Of course, we also had to have the staples: ramen and sushi. The sushi chef helpfully pointed out his recommendations and then went back to his efficient slicing and molding and topping and serving. Every bite was like a new revelation.
For the ramen, I passed many stalls on the street but waited until I saw a line coming out of one place. It turned out to be Ichiran, a rather popular chain. In peak season their line can stretch for hours, but since we were still in shoulder season it was much more reasonable. We had to wait just 30 minutes before stepping into iconic little booths and being served one of the most amazing bowls of ramen I’ve ever tasted. At this point, no matter where we stopped for food, it was always a grand slam. Even the 7-11 had great takeaway!
Day 4-7 Hokkaido
A Colorado girl at heart, I missed the last few ski seasons while living abroad. In researching the trip, I learned February is a fantastic time to hit the slopes in Japan. Making our way up north to check out the fabled Japanese powder became the focal point of the trip. Before we arrived in Japan, we invested in the rather expensive Shinkansen bullet train passes to cover our travel all the way up the island and then back down again.
Leaving from Tokyo, getting up to Hokkaido is a full day venture. After a 4 hour Shinkansen, we took a 3 hour local train to the local capital of Sapporo. Before hopping in our rental car to drive the next 3 hours to our final stop, we took some time visiting the Sapporo Ice Festival. This annual event features massive snow sculptures and ice carvings, as well as food stalls and live performances. The US Army Band played for us as we meandered our way to see the different ice blocks.
We made the stop quick because we still had a long drive ahead, on the left side of the road! The car GPS and Google Maps disagreed on the route, so we ended up going through farmlands on narrow roads.
Late that evening we pulled into Furano, unloaded our snow-crusted car, and hurried to hop into the private onsen, a mineral bath fed by natural hot springs that are dotted all across Japan. The journey was all worth it once we were on the mountain the next day, as we ascended up the gondola and dropped into some of the freshest, fluffiest powder. We only had to wait in lines once, and that was apparently during their busiest day of the year. The rest of the time we spent navigating through lush powder and trees.
Even in peak ski season, everything was affordable, especially when compared with the rising prices of Colorado skiing. A lift pass was $44 per day, rental gear about $33 per day, and for lunch we ate steaming bowls of ramen at the lodge for $5!
At night we roamed the quiet town and found the most delicious curry of my entire life. Stay tuned for a future post, a compilation of the three best meals I can remember. Two of those were eaten in Japan. At night we navigated around huge snow drifts, but the roads were cleanly plowed every morning.
I would have loved to stay and ski even longer, but there was more of Japan to see.
Day 8 Pit Stop in Hakone
Rather than making the extra-long trip all the way down to Kyoto, we stopped on the way at Hakone. Apparently, the area looks beautiful in springtime and has a popular sightseeing circuit, but we got mostly fog. However, Hakone also boasts a famous open-air sculpture museum so we had plenty of time to check it out. There is an extensive collection of outdoor sculptures and installations, allowing visitors to experience a blend of art and nature. Cold, but worth the visit!
Days 8-13 Kyoto
Kyoto came well-recommended and did not disappoint. There was so much to explore with this city’s rich history and culture. I visited landmarks such as the Fushimi Inari Shrine, the Kinkaku-ji Temple (also known as the Golden Pavilion), the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, and the Gion district, known for its geisha culture.
Our hotel was just off of the famous Nishiki Market, where you can walk and try different foods (but not at the same time, that’s a rule!) I tried all types of mochi, noodles, ice cream, and squid. I channelled my inner Phil from Somebody Feed Phil:
Two Hours Outside of Tokyo: My Friend’s House
After doing all the touristy bits of Kyoto, I was excited to travel to the house of one of my best friends, who moved to Japan just after college. He lives in an traditional farmhouse, complete with screen doors, traditional wood panelling, and a bathtub that does a little jingle when it’s full. This was the final stop on my Japanese whirlwind tour. It was a delight to explore with a fluent friend in tow. Luckily, our visit coincided with his village’s “World Food Bazaar” and we helped dish out hot dogs in a blanket and tried to explain how to eat a cupcake (everyone took a spoon, the idea of brazen mouth chomping apparently not very appealing).
In the last few days I spent quality time with my friend and his fiancée, which was a relief. When traveling, taking some days that are “down days” rather than “let’s see every attraction in the area” really helps to rejuvenate energy. And that’s what I did, at least until it was time for my flight to Australia for World Pride… but that’s for Early Retirement Month 7!
Goodbye Japan, I’ll Go And Come Back (行って来ます)!
Japan welcomed me with open arms, revealing its snow-covered landscapes and captivating charm. This journey imprinted a deeper appreciation for the captivating beauty of Japan, deliciousness of its food, and kindness of its people. I am left in awe of the stark contrast between my previous misshapen impressions and the vibrant reality that welcomed me. I can’t wait to go back, because there is so much more to see (and eat!)
What About You?
What destination shattered your preconceived notions about it?
Would you rather visit a bustling city, serene countryside, or historical landmark?
If you have been to Japan, what was your favorite part?
Let me know in the comments below!
Hey Jess!
Wow, that was a fun read that lead me down memory road! Several of your pics look familiar; our trek through Japan was a handful of years ago but we were similarly impressed.
Coming from the western world, I felt like Japan was a great introduction to eastern culture. It has enough cultural influence to not feel so foreign as to be lost, yet has such a distinct character that it does feel like a different world. We loved it!
teamLab looks like a great experience—not something we caught in Tokyo.
Aside from the cost, what’d you think of your Shinkansen experience? I’m a bit of a train buff, so it was going to be a highlight for me nearly no matter what, but Jenni seemed to love it too. The conductor/train workers do such an amazing job keeping things clean and running on time. It’s pretty fun to see their hand/arm signals as they go through the boarding motions, too. Did you notice the different themes/songs for the different regions as you travel?
And you’re right about the food, it was a delight. Better than expected, I’d say. I think one of the most surprising parts was just how good the food was even at the low end. You mentioned 7-11 and that rings true—even the sushi or onigiri there was impressively good.
Because this is of course a personal finance place at its core, how’d the costs in general tally up for you? More or less than expected? Before visiting, I was always under the impression that Japan is exceptionally expensive. Those ~$1 onigiri help!
Your post reminds me that this is what retirement is all about! I think many people are so focused on the money aspect that they forget to figure out what their passions and pursuits will be in retirement. I have been thinking about this lately and your post was inspiring. Clearly you are a foodie who loves to travel!
And… to answer one of your questions, my favourite part of Japan was the people and culture. Like you, I enjoyed the traditions, and the rich history.
Love your posts. Keep writing!
Japan is such an incredible country. I loved the two visits I’ve made there, especially Kyoto and the five lakes region. Always wanted to visit Hokkaido! Massively jealous of your skiing adventure there, it’s on the bucket list. Your write-up is amazing! What a great trip!
My only visit to Japan was in 1993, and I loved it too! I stopped there for 3 days on my way home after a semester study abroad program in Beijing. Most of my dorm-mates were Japanese and had gone home also. Three friends who lived in Tokyo area met me and generously showed me around, and I slept on the floor of my cousin’s best friend’s tiny apartment. Going from 1993 Beijing to 1993 Tokyo was like going from sepia to technicolor.