Early Retirement Month Four: Thailand Whirlwind Adventure Tour

Excuse me while I rave about Thailand

I had heard good things about traveling in Thailand. It comes highly recommended for first-timers going backpacking because people are helpful, food is phenomenal, and there is so much to see!

Even with the heads up, I was still blown away by Thailand. It is definitely one of my top favorite places. I island-hopped to the furthest point south, and then way up north to wrap up. I was lucky to be able to spend 45 days there— the max amount for a normal visa— and was tempted to do a “visa” run to get 45 days more. In this post I’ll run through the highlights of my fourth month in early retirement!

Starting in the South – Krabi

After Bali, I flew straight to Krabi, Thailand. From Krabi in sourthern Thailand, you can hit several of the beautiful Thai islands off the coast. With the looming limestone cliffs, delicious food, and stretches of beach, I felt like I had stumbled on paradise. In quick succession I experienced multiple staples of Thailand. First, I ordered Tom Yum soup while it rained outside, bowl steaming until my last bite. When the rain let up, I got a Thai iced tea for my walk home. Then on my way home, I thought I’d try a Thai massage ($6 for one hour).

I was surprised when she told me to keep on my clothes and lay down on the table. I was even more surprised when she hopped up on the table and started walking on top of me. I ended up composing a short poem based on the experience:

Since then, I’ve learned that traditional Thai massages are more about stretching and working out the muscles. If you want a more traditional relaxing experience, get an oil massage instead. By the time I wobbled back to my hostel, I felt Thailand still had a lot to show me.

Island Hopping from Krabi: The Awe-inspiring Jumping Off Point

From Krabi, I island hopped all the way to the most southern island of Koh Lipe, where I ended up staying for 2 weeks. I made up the route as I went, only booking two nights in each place and extending if I enjoyed my time. I had no itinerary besides asking folks about their favorite stops along the way, which is how I went from Krabi –> Koh Phi Phi –> Koh Lanta –> Koh Lipe.

At each spot I went snorkeling, went for a hike, and tried new food. Nearly every night ended in a blooming sunset that would settle over the water.

After a snorkeling tour in Krabi that ended in seeing the famous bioluminescent plankton, I took a boat to my next stop. At first I kept giggling when I had to say its name, but I’m finally mature enough to say my next stop out loud: Koh Phi Phi (pronounced Koe pee-pee).

Koh Phi Phi: The Best View

I came to this island because my dad went almost 30 years ago. Since he was there, it has definitely been built up. It’s party central now. I only stayed two nights because partying is not really my thing, but I at least got to hike up to the viewpoint and then to a beautiful beach on the other side of the island.

I borrowed a snorkel and swam around for a bit before taking one of the last boats back to my hostel. I stayed at Dee Dee Sea Front Hostel, where I could see the island and water from my bed. It was only $10 a night!

Koh Lanta: Feed Me

I stayed on this beautiful island for a week, renting a scooter and driving all over. I stayed near the Old Town, where houses are built on sticks above the ocean. This meant every morning around 6am I’d wake up to the rolling waves underneath me.

It’s hard to talk about Thailand without talking about the food. Please excuse me while I reminisce fondly about every bite.

In the mornings I went to Grandma’s House, where they baked up these unbelievable mango crumble dishes with homemade coconut ice cream. I want to go back just for that. They also had a “surprise” dinner, if you signed up the day before. Not usually much of a mushroom eater, the meal converted me.

The seafood in this area was unparalleled. I often had an entire fish, sometimes fried, sometimes cooked in lime juice with spicy sauces, always less than $10.

After a couple nights in a nice solo bungalow, I geared up to get going to the next island: Koh Lipe.

Koh Lipe: Paradise for Vacationers

This island was a highlight for me. It is completely walkable, with three primary beaches and a lively “Walking Street.” My hostel was $12 a night, and the female-only dorm stayed air conditioned and clean. Each day I extended my stay another night, until I spent a whole 2 weeks here!

This was also where I decided to do my diving certification, instead of Koh Tao, the usual place to go in Thailand. We spotted baby lion fish, stingrays, moray eels, and a cuttlefish! We also spotted several clown fish, some feisty ones ventured out to protect their home when we got close. Many days were gorgeous and sunny, but the days I did my certification it was cloudy and rainy— a good time to hide under water!

I loved how much there was to do, while still allowing for slow days where all I did was read in a hammock (retirement goals: achieved).

Khao Sok National Park: Untouched Wilderness

Another backpacker told me she was heading to Khao Sok, where you stay in huts on the lake. I followed her adventure online and to be honest it didn’t seem like something I wanted to do at first. She got sick and the weather wasn’t very good, so her experience didn’t sound like much fun. However, I kept hearing about the National Park from other travellers.

When I meet other people, I usually ask them what their very favorite experience was so far in their travels. The two I heard about most was Khao Sok National Park, and the Ha Giang loop in Northern Vietnam (note from the future I’m headed there now!). So before I left southern Thailand completely, I got a van all the way up the mainland to get to this famous national park. The sun broke through the clouds for the first time in a month (according to our guide), and the limestone cliffs blew me away.

We were in true wilderness, witnessing it all from the boat. Different breeds of monkeys launched from the trees, Elephants walked their babies on the shore (as spotted by the traveler who recommended this place in the first place), and birds chattered loudly. Definitely the most spectacular views of my trip so far were in Khao Sok.

I stayed in a floating hut for the night, sharing with another solo traveler I met the night before. Then, after another van ride and a night in a hotel by the airport, I headed off for a flight up north to Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai: Bustling But Welcoming City

I didn’t realize how much more expensive the south of Thailand, especially the touristy sites, are compared to the rest until I got to Chiang Mai. It was 2-3x less expensive in the north, probably because it doesn’t only cater to folks on vacation. In addition to being cheap, I loved that the regional dishes in the north are so different, so I got to switch from mouthwatering fish to mouthwatering curries.

Chef Stories: Thai Edition

There are always tours and classes to take in these Thai towns, and one of my very favorite experiences was a cooking class (also another recommendation from one backpacker as her ultimate highlight).

In this cooking class I made so many dishes that I wished I could pack them up and take them to eat for the rest of the week. It took nearly the whole day! We started in the market where the guide showed us what raw ingredients to buy, then went to a farm where she showed us the plants they grew, and then we got to work.

This was a great Christmas gift from a friend, I highly recommend gifting experiences like this to a friend if they are traveling! I really hope I can replicate that Phanaeng curry when I get home.

Join Me In Backpackers Paradise: Pai

Being in a city also meant different attractions. I went to a drag show, huge markets, and ate street food galore. After just a few days, I booked a bus to Pai—backpacker’s paradise. A friend told me it’s common to get “stuck” in Pai, and to plan for longer than I would normally expect.

Indeed, the amazing views from the hostel and super chill vibes made me extend my stay immediately.

When a new friend mentioned a meditation retreat, I signed up for three days.

I kicked off the new year meditating with monks.

We meditated four times a day for at least an hour at a time. It was barely enough time to start slowing down after what was a really wild year. I hope to continue the practice into 2023, because I could feel the edges start to wear away.

The retreat even offered meditation from 9pm until midnight on the new year. Fireworks crackled over the city, and we released our wishes for the new year into the sky.

Bonus: FIRE Meetups

I would be remiss to skip the fact that I met up with some other FIRE bloggers in Chiang Mai. Although we technically met up in my 5th month of retirement, it seems fitting to include our meeting in this post because it happened in Thailand!

First, I met up with Nomad Numbers, who let me know about free yoga and meditation classes in the area. What a gift to be able to meet up with like-minded folks in a completely different country! Their recommendations helped me navigate the city, which enhanced my experience overall.

Next I saw Joe from Retire By Forty, who I’ve never met despite us both living in Portland, OR for the same 4 years.

Then we all met up together for dinner! This was a real treat. When I eat by myself, it’s hard to try a lot of new things, but when eating with friends you can share and get to order a lot more from the menu. Plus it’s great to learn about how Nomad Numbers are after five years living nomadically while financially independent, and how Joe’s 2022 went.

Taken By Thailand

Thus ended 2022 and my fourth month of early retirement.

It’s been such a joy to take on a huge life transition while also learning so many new things at once. What is not a joy is having to leave Thailand. I will certainly be back, as it now tops the list as one of my favorite travel destinations.

Next stop: Vietnam!